Homebrew Beer Blog - Latest comments

In response to: HERMS Temperature Probe/Thermowell

Mike Flaminio [Member] — Wed, 22 Apr 2009 14:06:29 +0000

Sounds great. I just like shiny things. :)

In response to: Fermenter Yeast Growth and High O2

Mike Flaminio [Member] — Wed, 22 Apr 2009 14:04:51 +0000

Depends on the yeast you're using. Cold and time will settle out any yeast, but some take longer than others. It's likely not an issue of pitching too much.

Usually what I do, is I'll rack to a keg, chill the keg down to close to freezing, then do a gelatin treatment. Isinglass work even better, but I just use gel since it's cheap and I buy it at the store. Then I leave it a few days, and rack to a serving keg. All the yeast has settled out. Good luck!

In response to: Fermenter Yeast Growth and High O2

sue Hayward [Visitor] — Wed, 22 Apr 2009 13:06:18 +0000

As you seem to be techically minded on this subject, can I just ask, in simple terms, if I have pitched too much yeast for batch (cloudy, and when I test a glass with isinglass I get way too much sediment at the bottom!) what's best to do before a rack it? Move to holding tank, then rack, prime and isinglass after? Or straight to racking? Help! Have got fermenter down to 8 degrees and to help yeast drop out, fermentation has stopped, FG 1009 OG 1039 I want to bottle and cask but it's still cloudy and I don't want to end up with half a bottle of sediment! Isinglass clears it but leaves a lot of sediment at the bottom of test glass, any suggestions?

In response to: Recirculating Mash and Chill Pump

scottkb [Visitor] — Sat, 11 Apr 2009 15:32:48 +0000

Hey, I set up my HERMS and use the HLT/Heat Exchanger as the chiller as well. I never see anyone doing this, but am not sure why. At the end of mashing, I dump the hot water and fill with cold. at the end of the boil and whirlpool, i just set up my ETC at my chill temp and set it to COOL (RANCO ETC) Depending on what i feel like doing, i either add ice, or just let the HLT drain while adding new tap water to the top, keeping the temp down. Chills it quickly and no need to drop more copper in the beer or clean another item. Any thoughts on this?

In response to: HERMS Temperature Probe/Thermowell

scottkb [Visitor] — Sat, 11 Apr 2009 15:11:56 +0000

Hey, did the same thing basically, welded in a T right where the wort exits the Heat Exchanger, and then built a thermowell out of 1/4 copper tubing and a 1/2"-3/8" compression fitting. Drilled the center of the fitting to allow the flexible copper tubing (1/4") to fit all the way through, soldered a cap on the end that goes into the wort (obviously) and the other end sticks out and is open. Thought about S.S. but way too expensive to make three of them (needed for other parts of my system) and copper has a quicker response rate to heat change. My Lowes sells 1' sections of 1/4" copper, so, each heat exchanger only cost about $4 to make. If anyone needs pictures of the finished product let me know and I'll send it.

In response to: Belgian Pale

Mike Flaminio [Member] — Tue, 31 Mar 2009 12:21:48 +0000

I had to search my memory about this for a bit...

Usually I do 6-6.5 gallon batches. I made three gallons extra to do some experiments. So, I just brewed some extra wort to play with.

http://blog.flaminio.net/blogs/index.php/beer/brewing/whirlpooling_with_kettle_diverter_plate__2

In response to: Belgian Pale

orudis [Visitor] — Tue, 31 Mar 2009 05:11:11 +0000

Awesome site and blog, very nicely done. I have one question- why a 9 gallon batch? I assume you are kegging 5 gallons, and . . . ????

In response to: How do you fly sparge?

The Chadd [Visitor] — Mon, 30 Mar 2009 23:32:34 +0000

I fly sparge at 1qt every 3 minutes. I get about 83% efficiency with this method. I just go till I get 2 Brix on the runnings.